COPENHAGEN
Danish Delights
KELLIE FLOYD
Kellie Floyd and her family explore Queen Mary’s adopted home, Copenhagen in Denmark
“Help, how do I choose?”, our nine-year-old daughter Harriet pleas as her eyes dart between the assortment of Danish pastries before her. I empathise with her dilemma. A myriad of pastries lines the bakery shelves: flaky layers, fillings of custard, cheese, raspberry, cinnamon swirls and decadent toppings such as powdered sugar, sprinkles and coconut. Merely two hours into our visit to Copenhagen, it becomes apparent that indulging in the array of sweets this country has on offer will be a daily adventure we won't be able to resist.
From the moment we arrive, Copenhagen feels tailor-made for families. The Copenhagen Metro, a driverless light rail, whisks us effortlessly from the airport, much to the kids’ excitement as they pretend to drive the train. English flows easily from everyone’s lips, ensuring we can easily navigate the city. Copenhagen’s flat terrain also spares little ones with tired feet from hills, allowing us to focus on the wonders that lay ahead.
Opening image: Nyhavn, Copenhagen
Image above: Luke, William, Harriet and Kellie taking in the view from the Round Tower
Image below: Cityscape of Copenhagen from the Round Tower
Image above: Harriet posing as The Little Mermaid in front of the famous statue
Images below: The vibrant neighbourhood of Nyhavn, Copenhagen Harbour © Mitch Wiesinger
Staying near Hans Christian Andersen’s former home in Nyhavn
Our decision to stay in the pretty and vibrant neighbourhood of Nyhavn proves to be an inspired choice. Stepping out of our cosy Airbnb is like stepping back in time. The iconic brightly painted buildings that line the canal seem alive with whispers from the past. After all it was here, at number 20, that fairytale writer Hans Christian Andersen once resided, penning fables like The Princess and the Pea. The beautiful wooden boats add to the enchantment, evoking a bygone era of a bustling sea trade. Nyhavn's appeal extends far beyond its historical significance. Its central location near the metro line provides us with effortless access to various destinations.
The Little Mermaid Statue
One cold morning, we don jackets and beanies for a stroll along the waterfront to see the famous Little Mermaid statue. As we walk closer, the kids’ anticipation grows, fuelled by their familiarity with the Disney movie of the same name. When we see her, we’re all swept by her beauty. We imagine her gracefully emerging from the sea at high tide to sit on the rock and watch human folk ashore.
“The entire royal family, including Australian-born Queen Mary, soon emerge on the palace balcony and we join the crowd in cheering and waving to them”
Changing of the Guard ceremony at Amalienborg Palace
After energising ourselves with morning hot chocolates and more Danish pastries, we walk to Amalienborg Palace, the official residence of the Danish royal family, to watch the Changing of the Guard ceremony. We are quickly engulfed by a jubilant crowd, clad in white and red, waving Danish flags. Little do we know that our timing is impeccable – it turns out to be former Queen Margrethe's birthday! The entire royal family, including Australian-born Queen Mary, soon emerge on the palace balcony and we join the crowd in cheering and waving to them. The kids relish the unobstructed view of the balcony festivities, taking turns atop their dad’s shoulders.
Tivoli Gardens theme park
A visit to Tivoli Gardens, one of the world’s oldest operating theme parks, is a must. The gentle dragon boats and thrilling bumper cars bring a gleeful smile to 11-year-old William's face, and exuberant cheers from Harriet as she soars high on the Swing Carousel. Even my husband Luke can't resist the excitement of The Demon rollercoaster, while I find myself drifting into nostalgic bliss circling the Classic Carousel, with my childhood memories of amusement park excitement and laughter blending seamlessly with that of my own children.
When hunger strikes, we choose classic fun fair favourites from the food stalls, but there are also gourmet restaurants to dine in. Beyond its 30 rides, meticulously manicured gardens beg you to sit down and enjoy an ice-cream, and there’s a large playground for kids to play.
Images above: Royal Guard in Copenhagen, The royal family on the palace balcony at Amalienborg Palace
Images below: Tivoli Gardens theme park, Harriet and Kellie on a dragon boat at Tivoli Gardens
Images above: William, Luke and Harriet, cruising the canals, Kellie and her family eating Danish pastries at Copenhagen's oldest bakery, Sankt Peders Strade
Image below: Copenhagen cargo bike popular with local families © Viggo Lundberg
Taking in the view from Round Tower
Seeing Copenhagen from above is easy with a trip to the historic, 35-metre-high Round Tower. Commissioned by King Christian IV and built between 1637 and 1641, it was designed as an astronomical observatory, a university library, and a church. King Christian wanted to ride his horse up to the observatory rather than walking, so the tower was designed with a unique spiral ramp. Today, a viewing platform treats those who walk (no horses unfortunately!) to panoramic views of Copenhagen's rooftops, church spires, and historic landmarks.
Cruising the canals
After William and Harriet spend a couple of days waving to the boats on the waterways, they beg us to board one ourselves. So, on our final afternoon, we rent an electric boat, granting us the freedom to explore beyond where we can reach on foot. Equipped with a map and suggested routes, we glide along the calm waters, with the kids’ taking turns to point out shimmering reflections, colourful houses and charming bridges we pass under. The kids excitedly wave to passers-by on the streets, all of whom are kind enough to wave back.
Our final activity is the same one we started with – savouring freshly baked pastries at Copenhagen's oldest bakery, Sankt Peders Stræde. We find ourselves returning to this establishment time and again.